Thinly applied paint or wash used to define the forms of a model. Where as the deep shade was reserved for the very recess of a model a soft shade can be applied to imply much softer shadows. Examples of this are on the folds of cloth, or curved surfaces.
Applying paint to the deepest recess of a model, this technique helps add depth to a model. A good example of this is when shading the panel lines on space marine armour. For this technique it's much easier to use watered down paint instead of the Shade Paints, as the paint will give you much better control.
Initial highlight on a surface that is applied approximately 1.5 times wider than your final highlight. The aim with this stage is to build the foundation for further highlights. This highlight is generally only slightly lighter than the base colour — building the transition towards the brighter final highlight.
A highlight that builds upon the foundation of the chunky highlight. Here you start to build up the intensity in value contrast.
The final highlight is the brightest and sharpest highlight stage. This is the stage that really defines the shape of the panel. This highlight needs to be more reserved than previous ones, applying it only to the most prominent edges. This also helps to describe the light source and avoids everything reading the same.
A highlight applied to the very corners to imitate light catching on the surface, generally used for harder surfaces but can sometimes be applied to the tops of folds, etc.
A glaze is a heavily diluted paint which can be used to tint a surface or blend a colour. There's no rule to how much you need to water down the paint as certain colours will require more or less water, just remember this isn't a wash.
Heavily diluted paint or shade paint, applied as an all over wash to an area of a model. A wash doesn't always need to be applied heavily or all over a model, it can be applied in a much more controlled fashion to shade a texture like fur or hair for example.
Paint applied by adding undiluted paint to the brush and removing the excess. Carefully drawing the brush across the edges will cause paint to slowly build up on the raised areas of the miniature. This technique can be used on the model itself but it's generally a technique reserved for basing and terrain.
Welcome to the ‘Eavy Archive! A completely free library of box-art recipes collected together by The Infernal Brush Discord Community and provided here with the associated images to illustrate their usage.
This site is unofficial and in no way endorsed by Games Workshop. It is simply a fan site created by enthusiasts of the box-art style and intended to help fellow miniature painters achieve similar looking results.
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Warhammer
This web site is completely unofficial and in no way endorsed by Games Workshop Limited.
The Chaos devices, the Chaos logo, Citadel, Citadel Device, the Double-Headed/Imperial Eagle device, ‘Eavy Metal, Forge World, Games Workshop, Games Workshop logo, Golden Demon, Great Unclean One, the Hammer of Sigmar logo, Horned Rat logo, Keeper of Secrets, Khemri, Khorne, Lord of Change, Nurgle, Skaven, the Skaven symbol devices, Slaanesh, Tomb Kings, Trio of Warriors, Twin Tailed Comet Logo, Tzeentch, Warhammer, Warhammer Online, Warhammer World logo, White Dwarf, the White Dwarf logo, and all associated marks, names, races, race insignia, characters, vehicles, locations, units, illustrations and images from the Warhammer world are either ®, TM and/or © Copyright Games Workshop Ltd 2000-2008, variably registered in the UK and other countries around the world. Used without permission. No challenge to their status intended. All Rights Reserved to their respective owners.
General
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40K » Chaos Daemons
General Recipes
General Recipes
Age of Sigmar
40K » Chaos Space Marines
Age of Sigmar » Seraphon
